In Valladolid, the women still wear the traditional Mayan dresses. You know the ones: Made of cotton, with square-ish necklines and a boxy fit, short sleeves and pretty lace ruffles or bight floral embroidery. Usually they're white or blue or black or yellow with colorful stitching, but they can be any color, really. They can be long and worn like a dress or shorter and worn as a top. They're called huipiles, and they're pretty much the one-and-done wonder of Central America.
At the beautiful Coqui Coqui hotel in Valladolid, co-owner Francesca Bonato sells a few special huipiles from her Hacienda Montaecristo line. I fell hard for the raspberry version, but the ivory and black ones were equally gorgeous. Made by local artisans from sneaky cut-away lace and fastened with a sweet braided belt, they're the perfect modern update of the tried-and-true classic. Just the thing to wear to while wandering centuries-old colonial streets — and once you get home, too.